I recently received the Lupo Superpanel 1x1 LED and I wanted to test it's output against a couple other LED panels that we had laying around the shop; the Socanland NOVA-CTD 100w 60 degree 1x1 and the F&V K4000s. I knew that on paper the Superpanel was suppose to be much brighter but I wanted to see it put to the test.
All the lights are bi-color so I conducted the test in 5600K (daylight), 3200K (tungsten) and also at 4400K. The results were interesting!
The Lupo Superpanel was by far the brightest of the three. It was a full 3 stops brighter than the Socanland NOVA-CTD and a whooping 5.5 stops brighter than the F&V K4000s. But here it is by the numbers:
You can see by the numbers that both the Lupo Superpanel and the Socanland NOVA-CTD only vary slightly between 5600K, 3200K and 4400K but the F&V K4000s is a different story. It varies widely between the color temperature which means that you'll need to either change your camera's exposure or change the output of light whenever you change the color temperature - which is a pain if you're trying to quickly warm/cool a shot.
One easy way to really grasp the output difference was the distance I stood away from the lights to get the same exposure levels. For the test I left the camera at the same exposure level and color balance for all the lights. I stood 10 feet from the camera for The Lupo Superpanel. I had to move up to 5 feet from the camera to get the same exposure on my face with the Socanland NOVE-CTD. And finally I had to stand 2 feet away from the camera to get the same exposure on me with the F&V K4000s. I do need to say that this is an older F&V LED panel that we have. I know the new ones outputs are rated higher - but certainly not 5.5 stops brighter. I should also note the the F&V K4000s has an obvious green tint to it.
Personally I'm not a big fan of lighting talent with straight LED bulbs. I always go through some sort of diffusion and if you're shooting beauty, then the bigger (size-wise) the better. This means you need a powerful LED to give you the required output. I was curious about how different thicknesses of diffusion worked on the Lupo Superpanel. Here's my results:
In a true beauty lighting situation I would use a larger 4'x4' frame and place it further from the light. This will give you a real soft wrap around light.
I also wanted to test how long my Power-U 150Wh/14.4VV-mount battery would last at full power at 5600K. At the beginning of the test the EV came to 10.7 (12 feet away). At 30 minutes the EV began to drop and at 35 minutes the EV went down to 10.2. For reference, I had to move forward 2 feet to get back to 10.7 EV's. But what's interesting is that it held at 10.2 EV's for ANOTHER HOUR. So at 1:30 I was still reading 10.2 on the meter. When I went to check it at 1:40 the EV's had dropped to 9.9 and then a minute later the light started flickering on and off. So the bottom line is you can get at least 1 and a half hours of run-time on the Superpanel with a 150Wh battery - with a slight drop at 30 - 40 minute mark.
There is a slight difference in output when you switch from plug-in power to batteries. When I plugged the Superpanel into the wall after my battery test I received at 10.9 EV instead of a 10.7 EV. That equates to the light being about 1 foot closer at the 12 foot mark.
I hope this has been helpful. These are tests that I was interested in doing for my own knowledge and I thought others might be interested. I am not at all affiliated with Lupolux but I am a fan boy. Lupo lights are now available in the US through Brightline at brightline.myshopify.com